HeadGasket replacement - time taken?

Micra 110

Site Supporter
As per heading.

I'm going to be doing the Job this afternoon, does anyone think it'll be done in under 2 hours?

cheers :)
 
i had the head off, replaced the headgasket, fitted new cams, ran it to the shops and back, got home, took the cams out and replaced them with the cg13 ones in 3 hrs...
 
getting teh side engine mount bracket off a K10/MA can take 2 years!!!

personally, If I needed the vehicle running during the week, I would definately put a weekend aside and just take your time and try to get a good weather forcast if you're out doors.

theres loads of problems that can slow things down and make the job frustrating....and potentially scupper the car for a few days if you have to wait for parts to didnt expect to need if something undesirable is discovered

and check youve got all the tools and replacable bits you need before you make a start....(eg fresh timing belt at the same time?.....does the rocker cover gasket need replacing (too flat).....fresh coolant, stat & antifreexe at the same time? do you want to clean up the pistons & combustion chambers at teh same time...whats involved etc



ignore the boasters (20 second head gasket change people) ...lol
 
Hoorah!

The new Headgasket has now been fitted, started it it the afternoon, stopped because it got dark and finished the next morning but all in all it took about 5 hours....it were bloomin' freezin'!

Anyway, here's the shocking part.....

The Engine has done 101000 + miles and I believe that the Headgasket that was removed was the original and I think it shows...o_O

The waterways were blocked by the Gasket, it had been completely compressed and had fallen to pieces.

GSX12Head.jpg


Picking out the gasket...

GSX12Headgasketreplacement.jpg


That drivers side Engine mount WAS a mare to get off!

I'd like to thank Andy for supplying tools, time and doing most of the work (cause he likes to do that :) ) Seb for doing the running about and Rachael for supplying the Tea :)
 
thumbs up

I'd like to thank Andy for supplying tools, time and doing most of the work (cause he likes to do that :) ) Seb for doing the running about and Rachael for supplying the Tea :)


.... and me for my meditation and remote telepathic moral support...


nice job in 5 hours!! CORKER!!!!


LOL at the state of the old gasket.....nice to get that out of the way :)...ALL DONE!!
 
.... and me for my meditation and remote telepathic moral support...


nice job in 5 hours!! CORKER!!!!


LOL at the state of the old gasket.....nice to get that out of the way :)...ALL DONE!!

:doh: I thought I forgot someone! :laugh:

The Job of removing the Gasket was fairly easy it was the rest of the gubbins which was the problem. Taking the carb and manifold off at the same time was a lot easier than I thought, having a Flexi-pipe on the Exhaust would've made things easier too. I think if someone does this Job just once then the next one will be a doddle , you just need to have a bit of confidence....doing it in daylight also helps :)

All that jazz what Haynes says about setting the timing up is not really necessary. A mark on the Cambelt and Pulley and a mark on the Distributor is all you need :)
 
All that jazz what Haynes says about setting the timing up is not really necessary. A mark on the Cambelt and Pulley and a mark on the Distributor is all you need :)

did the haynes advise draining the coolant before taking the head off tho ;)
 
did the haynes advise draining the coolant before taking the head off tho ;)

Yes they did :)

Haynes are good but sometimes another way is needed. I'm glad that we don't all think the same way :)

A couple of problems not mentioned, 2 of the spark plugs were shot and one of the Head bolts was rusty.

.....it didn't snap so it must be ok! :laugh:
 
Good job, I'm still doing mine, have got sidetracked.

I'll be back for advice, particularly about the timing setup, as Haynes says to use Peg Spanner/Cam Sprocket Wrench on the camshaft sprocket, not sure what that is about as nobody seems to have this tool.

Is that same thing you are talking about when you say "All that jazz what Haynes says about setting the timing up is not really necessary. A mark on the Cambelt and Pulley and a mark on the Distributor is all you need" ??
.
 
Good job, I'm still doing mine, have got sidetracked.

I'll be back for advice, particularly about the timing setup, as Haynes says to use Peg Spanner/Cam Sprocket Wrench on the camshaft sprocket, not sure what that is about as nobody seems to have this tool.

Is that same thing you are talking about when you say "All that jazz what Haynes says about setting the timing up is not really necessary. A mark on the Cambelt and Pulley and a mark on the Distributor is all you need" ??
.

Yes it is.

No need to have those tools unless maybe for a complete strip down.

The Distributor MUST go back on exactly as before. Also do not twist or lose the metal sheath on the bottom of the Distributor other wise the Timing will be affected.

The Alternator and Hanger bracket needs to come off too :)
 
Yes it is.

No need to have those tools unless maybe for a complete strip down.

The Distributor MUST go back on exactly as before. Also do not twist or lose the metal sheath on the bottom of the Distributor other wise the Timing will be affected.

The Alternator and Hanger bracket needs to come off too :)
Reading Haynes manual I don't understand how to tension the Timing Belt.

In Section 1.6, items 31 to 37.

It says to:
-slide tensioner to left & temporarily tighten bolt
-fit timing belt
-loosen tensioner locknut
-rotate whole assembly 2 turns anti-clockwise using peg spanner
-tighten tensioner locknut & check alignment marks & deflection.

I assume doing this should automatically adjust tension correctly.

1) How did you tension the Timing Belt Tensioner & check its deflection.

Did you do by trial & error, adjust, tighten, check, readjust & check again ??
.
 
Did you do by trial & error, adjust, tighten, check, readjust & check again ??

Pretty much :D

Follow Haynes instructions chapter 4 to ch4/19 (Disregard Ch4/ parts 12 and 13. You'll need a bit of 4x2
Make a mark with Tippex on the Distributer, Cambelt both ends and on the Cambelt pulley.

! Do not under any circumstances turn the Engine over in any way !

Undo the Tensioner, don't remove it.....the Engine shouldn't revolve and the Belt should now Slip off.

After aligning the marks on the Belt with the ones on the pulleys, you have to turn the Tensioner to tighten the Belt, tension the Belt up and lock in place.

That should be about it :)
 
Pretty much :D

Follow Haynes instructions chapter 4 to ch4/19 (Disregard Ch4/ parts 12 and 13. You'll need a bit of 4x2
Make a mark with Tippex on the Distributer, Cambelt both ends and on the Cambelt pulley.

! Do not under any circumstances turn the Engine over in any way !

Undo the Tensioner, don't remove it.....the Engine shouldn't revolve and the Belt should now Slip off.

After aligning the marks on the Belt with the ones on the pulleys, you have to turn the Tensioner to tighten the Belt, tension the Belt up and lock in place.

That should be about it :)
My chapter 4 doesn't have those sections (12, 13, 19), only goes up to section 11.

Too late for putting Tippex marks, I've taken all those parts off already.

I've also moved Camshaft wheel.
 
Back
Top