Recent content by Seb_

Always go for OEM parts when it comes to MAF sensors (Bosch on both euro K11 and K12). Just check the part number on nissan4u and other websites. Not taking the Bosch sold by Nissan is better than regular Bosch, you just need to make sure it's not a copy so buy it from a trusted shop. (no...

Had some idling issue with the new 1.4 engine I fitted onto my car while I was reusing my old engine low mileage MAF which I knew was working well, so I tried to clean the IACV part you're referencing by spraying some MAF cleaner through the throttle body (remove all the meshes and find the hole...

Hi the two last replies in this thread might help you: https://micra.org.uk/threads/adding-a-pillar-tweeters-rear-shelf-how-to-cable.70107/ Let us know !

@Gertinos by curiosity what's the brand of the MAF you used?

Another day, another hiccup, check engine light got on. Car was running right but a bit rich/over fueling (70KM for a quarter of a fuel gauge), like if the O2 sensor was disconnected. After a quick OBD scan, faulty O2 sensor indeed: « Funny » thing is that the manifold O2 sensor is a brand...

While removing the old fuel pump to install the used one I bought from EBay, I quickly understood what happened, the hose connected to the fuel pump got damaged and disconnected itself from the pump. Didn’t bother myself to fix it and swapped it with the whole new assembly. Car is now working...

Well after a few days working great, the car stopped in the middle of the road and didnt crank anymore, even while flooring the throttle, got to get it back home and look whats wrong :LOL:

Hi -Clean the Bosch IACV module on the back of the throttle body, to do that you need to remove the airbox, remove the different meshes on top of the throttle body, then you will see a hole above the throttle body flap, spray generously some carburetor cleaner in it. Wait for a few hours and...

The IACV was indeed the culprit. I did remove all the meshes (metal and plastic) above the throttle body, sprayed carburetor cleaner inside the IACV inlet, and the car started and idled correctly first try!

Thanks for the hint, the Bosch electronic ICV module is definitely on the list too. They don’t seem adjustable so I’ll probably try to reuse the one from the original 1L engine.

It’s been a long journey. Completed the low mileage CGA3 swap, 1L flywheel, low mileage 1L gearbox, new clutch, new suspensions, new sensors. Refurbished the whole engine loom. Took the car for a drive test, started 1st attempt, pulled hard and smooth, but back home it started to stall while...

That might be a start:

Well got stuck while trying to split the engine from the gearbox. Been removed the 4 bolts holding the 2 together plus the back support one, but can’t separate them to grab the flywheel out. Any idea? Am I missing something?

So in the end I had to remove both the engine and the attached gearbox as a whole. Because of the plate in between on the facelift models. Therefore I had to remove the driveshafts. RHD side went out smoothly but LHD been a nightmare. The part of the driveshaft connected to the gearbox did stay...