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The car is now running!


I went down with a couple of code readers and a battery charger. Put the car on charge, checked all the fuses and tried some of the on/off ignition sequences Id read about. None of that worked.


I looked at the fault codes, they were P1610 and P1611. P1610 cleared as it was a low voltage error. The P1611 would clear but then come back whenever I tried to start it. P1611 is 'Key ID Discord IMM-ECM' which online it says is:


  1. Faulty or not programmed ignition key
  2. Faulty IMMU
  3. Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)


At this point, I was starting to think it might actually be that the key needed reprogramming. But it did unlock the car remotely and allow the ignition on. But I was still unsure. So I thought I'll take the steering cowl off and have a look is the stud things have been hammered out the ignition previously to change the EPS and replaced with bolts......


[ATTACH=full]74308[/ATTACH]



Bolts! So it cant be the original EPS! :)



So I took it off, which was much easier than I expected. Its no more than an hour. Forum user huttojb then kindly allowed me to bring it over to his home when he finished work and reset the code in it for me. So it would then actually code to my car. Thanks Jason! :)


Refitted it the next day. Worryingly it didn't work the first time,...hahaa


The first time nothing. So I locked it all and unlocked it. Then it cranked but wouldn't fire. So put the ignition off and then back on, only then did the NATS light go out and it started!


Anyway, I've gone on a bit here sorry. But I'm really pleased to get to the bottom of what is a very strange problem the I would guess has stumped a lot of people. Very satisfying to get to the cause of the problem! (With huttojb help :) )


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