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cv's go clunk in the corners, won't be that. ball joints rattle on bumps, won't be that. wishbones, could be rear bushing is dead, but other noises would be more prevalent. drop links, but again not just when braking. subframe mounts, rear one, possible, movement when accelerating would be...

which bushes? the subframe bushes are the only one I can think of back there and they are 17 quid each. drop the axle (4 bolts, two through the bushing and two through the shocks), you will have to undo the ancillaries (brake lines, ABS sensor, etc.). press the old out (there's a specially tool...

Dot left today. She went in px for a new car. So long folks, I have nothing worth adding anymore. Good luck to Dot the big bottom CC.

Ok, I'll put it a slightly different way. Your friendly local body shop and welder may not fit it as they will be worried about major distortion across a panel.

the arch is the same shape but the panel still may not fit. it will also be a bitch to weld in and not distort the panel. have you tried looking for a rear quarter panel? other option is as ever the scrap yard where you can drill out the spot welds and cut the panel closer to the swage line...

least to worst invasive approach to screw extraction. cold chisel, set to side of screw and tapped with hammer to turn it. dremel a slot on to the screw and use a large, flat bladed screw driver to turn it. drill the head off then use mole grips to turn it. use a screw extractor (which will...

Bushes and drop links. Front subframe bushes die, leave a harsh ride. And what Mr Paul said above.

reset the throttle position sensor. have you run a diagnostic to see what fault codes are showing?

Silver vinyl wrap is your best option. Mine are metallic grey. ?

Aerial delete. Never use the radio so made it go bye bye. Also means my frost cover will fit better. 3d printer are soooooo useful.

oh and most likely place to be leaking from is the pump seal. it's just a grommet, when you swap out the pump they can be a bugger to get to seal or worse, they have a tendency to be pushed in to the bottle. you need to lubricate the pump as you push it in.

remove the wheel arch liner. you will struggle to remove the bumper as all the fixings will be rusted. you will possibly have to cut some of the fixings (do not try to undo the bolts in the wheel arch for the bumper without being able to hold the clip, it will spin and eat your bumper). you...

could just be bushes settling but take it back, there a few things it could be that need correcting.

the USB sockets are upside down. :) I've been eyeing up that head unit, how is it? does it work ok with the steering wheel input?

Unloaded bearing will sound and spin just fine. Once loaded it can run rough. 1.4 has 2 belts, so you can run without it at least. Given its intermittent though I'd check your alternator to. My 1600 is currently doing it on over run, I will be doing the tensioner this weekend, if that...

Did you do the tensioner?

bias. sprayed from the other direction. fairly common sadly, not all colours show it.

Looks good. spraying outside is always a risk, but it looks like you got away with it. you'll do the bumper, then think "oh, that side panel looks a bit flat" then you'll do that and think "oh that door looks a bit flat" and so on and so on, till you reach the other side panel and it turns out...

not sure how I've made another year, but I have. :) nothing major for this year. MOT flew through. I did replace the front discs and pads and service the calipers, along with new shoes and springs in the rear. had to do a ball joint, but meh. also did the subframe front mounts while I was...

yes. spray grease on all moving joints and the locking mechanism. the hydraulic system is closed loop, don't touch it unless it leaks, there is a fluid check, but it's involved and could lead to other issues. also worth cleaning out all the seal drains (front and rear pillar) on a routine...