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I assume your car is petrol? check the compression of the cylinders, overheating can cause problems with the bores and pistons/rings. Its a simple test to perform to rule out this.secondly fuel. My advice would be to have the fuel flow rates monitered on a rolling road with a specialist tuning...

The rhythmic knock you mention may be typical of worn subframe bushes, as they tend to be more noticable under load or coming off load as the subframe tends to rock about under the stresses, It took ages for me to source this problem but the bushes are cheap but heavy on labour time, so best let...

K12 diesels are usually bullet proof, however said that they tend to be heavy on suspension and undercarriage. the swarf you mension is usually from a worn fuel pump but generally on very high unserviced cars. I would ask you to change the fuel filter and glow pugs if needed also check the...

Move your request to "K12 Tuning & mechanical" and you will get some advice.:oops:

Here are the part numbers for the front brakes: Front brake discs:- 40206-AX600 (260mm Dia x 22mm thick) Front brake pads:- 41060-AX625 (12.40 mm thickness) Front brake caliper RIGHT:- 41001-AX601 (brake system TRW) Front brake caliper LEFT:- 41011-AX601 (brake system TRW) Front brake carrier...

Firstly you need to check air filter and glow plugs, on mine 3 had burnt out without any faults showing, also the fuel filter may need a drain ( under front passenger wheel arch) to drain any water in the filter. It may need changing later. I also highly recommend adding this additive to the...

I have suzuki's that run on petrol and they used to suffer the same thing stalling at juntions and then difficult to start, car is 20 years old and kept immaculate, so I have come to the conclusion it's the E10 fuel that was causing the problem, i now use a benzine additive in the fuel and I...

Have a look at the manual it will navigate you part of the way, just a thought, but I took apart all the engine sensors on mine and cleaned each one out with the contact cleaner including the fuses etc, they tend to oxidise or go green over time which interferes with the signals to the ECU.

It.s an EVAP purge cannister solenoid, you will find more details in the manual.:unsure:

My micra is diesel, however it looks like an air mass sensor, but to be sure on your particular model, just check with the workshop manual, link below should work, any problems let me know. https://www.workshopservicemanual.com/m0072157-nissan-micra-k12-2002-2010.html

Try reading this web page and it may give you an indication why the engine is poping up codes, and giving you stalling problems, as car get on in years its best to get to the problem(s) by a process of elimination or it can become a nightmare, so try and dealing with simple things that can stall...

As your gearbox is hydraulically driven by the engine, then its probable a pressure fault, this however should not stall the engine, before delving deeper give the engine a service with new air cleaner and spark plugs, I have had auto gearboxes in the past and if the gearbox goes the engine...

Yes each model has differences, however as both engine rad and condenser rad both sit and locate on your lower support, if you removed from the bottom support then both rads would tend to drop. The top way is the best as the condenser rad has a sensor attached to top pipe so it would be better...

The condeser rad is bolted to the main radiator with 4 screw bolts, if you have a charge cooler then this has to be removed as well as this is hooked on to the condenser rad and is in front of the condenser rad.

Depends on your model, but as i have just replaced my rads, starter alternator and fan motor(diesel version), for me it was easier to place the rad on the lower support when refitting, I also replaced the rubber bushes on the slam panel (screw out anti clockwise) as they had perished when removing.

Just seen your post, yes top way is best, I have changed my radiator and after cooler (mega amount) as engine has been refurbished, the slam panels are a pain but you get easier access to the engine bay and can change the rads easier that way the lower support stops in place and is easier to...

The pressure from driving through flood water may have loosend something, if you can take the car to an exhaust centre for a "free safety check" and they will check under the car for you?:unsure:

That is partly right, however it is about air to oxygen levels per volume of air, cold air contains more oxygen for the combustion process, however hot air contains less oxygen for the same volume of air, hence cars in hotter dryer climates need an increase in air volume as to contain the...

all I can confirm is march editions and again its the particular destination that the car is sold in will have different specifications depending on the climatic conditions the car has to operate in. hot dry conditions will tend to have larger airbox or larger inlet apetures. so be carefull, my...

Try this web site for part numbers: https://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/micra/k12e/ Check your model on the list and take a note of the part number, then check the 1.2 on the list and check the part number to see if they tally?if they do then you will know if they will fit, the petrol versions...