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London ULEZ Compliance Quick Check Your Vehicle. Quickest five minute way to check your vehicle compliance is to use the tfl “pay to drive In London” website, simply put your reg no in. Vehicle details - Transport for London (tfl.gov.uk) This immediately confirmed that my 25 year old 1998 K11...

Wow that’s an exceptional 28 year family history heritage from new & still going strong, credit where it’s due. Banger economics principles save loads while keeping just one vehicle pays for multiple all-inclusive holidays every year for the Mrs & I. Perhaps the interesting potential priority...

Any repair is becoming increasingly marginal dependent upon how much time from your life & money you are prepared to spend endlessly repairing an old vehicle that is well beyond its design economic useful life cycle? I run my sole vehicle as cheaply as possible via simple & minimal DIY...

Here there is a very helpful fellow who may be able to help with power steering issues at marginal cost. EPS Power steering column, what ACTUALLY goes wrong? | Page 9 | Micra Sports Club The Nissan dealer is correct in that your vehicle is beyond commercial costs economic repair & that further...

Happy to help. There are some real in depth experienced K11 Micra experts on here & if you can accurately describe issues together with any fault codes they are pleased to help to keep these old cars going at minimal marginal costs. :)

Assuming it is not misfiring, & is starting & driving ok, than erratic idle, is equally likely due to idle air leaks, exhaust gas leaks & unstable idle fuel pressure? Erratic idle, (not to be confused with Eric Idle or me Bone Idle according to the Mrs) can be researched in the MSC top right...

Quote: “Recently bought a 1.0 2002 Micra, and she needs a new throttle body”. What evidence do you have for suggesting that the TB requires replacing? Quote: “Anyone know if the throttle body from the older distributor engine is the same and will fit onto my coil pack motor”? Not the same &...

The clutch cable has been set up very tight with little or no free play in order to get the clutch to disengage enough to enable smooth gear changes. Loosening the cable a little to achieve normal free play will not reduce clutch operation stiffness. Lubricating the clutch operating arm & the...

The videos are good enough & explain better than a thousand words to confirm the sound of the pedal box straining protesting under the excess tension stress with a lack of any slack in the cable adjustment but more importantly a lack corresponding movement in the clutch release operating arm...

Check the clutch operating arm free movement when clutch pedal is fully pressed down & released. repeatedly. Lube the squeaking clutch operating arm pivot point shaft. Video the above clutch operating arm range of movement for its assessment by “MSC experts” as I suspect the release pressure...

Come on Feel the intake Noise harmonics Resonance. :eek: Slade-Com on feel the noize HD - YouTube

That's the K11 way to do it.

Well spotted article. On here I think we all now know every K11 vehicle was right throughout from design to production from the get go in 1992. Perhaps that’s why so many of them are still running around doing its job to keep going for reliable cheap motoring with no snags as mine does & it’s...

P1650 starter is interlocked & inhibited by ECU & IPDM due to faults implied by : Quote; “ MIL flashes yellow and the start stop function indicates an error”. Possibly due to low voltages in the stop/start system corroded fusible links, low battery or its connections. ;)

Well done with another K11 saved from the inevitable scrap resting place, just not today for now. With ABS it is essential to frequently change the brake fluid every three years & it’s a lot cheaper to have your module refurbished or reconditioned. :) Nissan MICRA ABS (Pump & ECU/Module...

With a Tin Lizzie are you lost in the old Micra tin box on wheels forum? :unsure:

Rev up your engine, turn on headlights & switch on rear fog light & it’s good to go! Rear fog light is interlocked with the engine & headlights. ;)

Fix the leaks; kill all the mould, vacuum the interior & the DIY job is good to go. The seat frames surface rust does not matter. The alternative is to get the supplying dealer to collect it & sort it out including the leaks according to his legal responsibilities under UK consumer rights...

Quote; “I am sick to death of fixing the car and worry about passing an MOT” The joys of cheap banger motoring as some of us petrol heads actually enjoy the challenge of amateur DIY improvising, adapting & overcoming the snags that inevitably crop up to be dealt with by me @ at marginal minimal...

No surprise then. There are many more profitable & productive things to be doing with one’s life than spending open ended unlimited time & money fixing up a worthless 20year old banger without even an MOT failure list to focus & guide repair work to? :eek: