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The radio should come with a ISO compatible lead set that would fit your adapter. If you bought the radio second hand and did not get that cable, you would have to somehow get one. If you bought the radio new you should go through everything in the box.

I'd probably reach out to breakers for parts, afaik the front and rear door hinges are the same across all K11s so I'd recommend you look for rear right hinges as they would have less use and less weight on them from the smaller rear doors.

It's been quite quiet on the Mike front, but finally I got some new parts. Of course, there was a strike so the delivery was delayed by more than a week but finally, a box of goodies came over from our lovely neighbours down south, Estonia! A new expansion tank, passenger door handle, fuel...

Speaker wattage is pretty much just marketing, and a measure of the maximum they can handle. If you're connecting them directly to the head unit, it doesn't matter. What is more important is the impedance (ohms) especially if you have a stock head unit but less so if it's aftermarket.

According to the service manual (which is easily found on the internet ;)) page EF & EC100, the fuel pressure gauge should be put inline with the hose right after the fuel filter in the engine bay. Fuel pressure should be about 2.45 bar at idle and about 2.94 bar when pressure regulator vacuum...

Hmm, looking at pictures of loose parcel shelves, maybe those are actually meant to land on top of the parcel shelf to hold it down as the pictures seem to show staining in those locations. In any case I think the shape of the parcel shelf is a bit different between the two brake light variants...

I believe they are there to hold up the parcel shelf. Maybe yours hangs too low on the strings, and doesn't fall on top? Can't check mine unfortunately as it's turning to dust and thus can no longer be fitted.

IIRC from removing mine for testing, it's just a quite tight friction fit. Give it a good wiggle while pulling and it should come off relatively easily.

It might not have come clear enough from the previous posts, the car has never run quite right. The symptoms were initially identical to those of Daniel_ here in this thread, but they got much less bad as time went on. I tried to change all kinds of cheap things from spark plugs and cleaning...

So the third brake light snapped off again. Another smattering of epoxy was applied, with care taken to get some inbetween the cracks: Bolted it up and threw in some rivets to make sure it doesn't fall off again: The rivets make it hold tighter against the glass, so I think it should also...

The closest thing to a crankshaft position sensor on a 1999 micra is the ignition sensor/transistor module, which is located inside the distributor. Google RSB-53 for pictures and replacement parts.

According to the wiring diagrams, the headlight switch does have two pairs of contacts for each headlight, so I wouldn't rule it out completely. I've attached the wiring diagram, if it's any help to you.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, I'm as puzzled as you are. Usually lighting issues are caused by the daytime running light controller, but I don't think it's the culprit in this case. The fact that the full beams don't work but flash works suggests to me that the stalk switch could be broken.

There's three distinct generations: Pre-facelift. First facelift, like mine, with relatively minor changes: face lifted :) new dashboard Second facelift: small visual changes (headlights, bumpers, third brake light) coilpacks and OBD2 ecu, a bit more power slightly bigger bigger engine...

Haha, thanks. Yours is like a younger look-a-like! There's still some rough running here and there. Might be the fuel system, might be the timing chain. But it runs and drives fine enough for now, and I can get on with some more tinkering come summer holidays. The speakers were a significant...

Hinge time! I bought a good set of driver's side hinges for 20€ off of some guy parting out his Micra. Thinking of ways to change the hinges, I decided to pull off the front quarter panel and change the hinges in-situ, with the door closed. Not the easiest job though, with rust etc. Starting...

Update: F-ed around and found out. A M3 screw, 8mm length, with captive spring washer. Found loads in a bin at work. Gave it a drop of blue threadlocker for security. Farnell link here. Or pillage your nearest frequency converter ;)

Then I would be worried. Keep in mind you said in the original post it flickered only when starting.

I wouldn't really worry about it yet, as long as the light is not on when the engine is running. It might mean your oil is getting a bit old or your oil pump might be starting to go out, but again, as long as the light isn't on while the engine is running I wouldn't be worried.

Don’t know where you’re based but any of them should have ISO plugs in Europe at least. If you want to avoid extra wiring, don’t go with Kenwood (or some JVC United) as their steering wheel remote signals are connected by a wire, not a jack like most other brands.