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Defo. March on the tail, square plates and daft corner markers on the front bumper. If its not raining tomorrow ill try and get better pictures.

I snapped this picture, looks the same to me. Sorry its not great. It was raining.

Thanks. Yes you are right, those are simple are not going to fit, the clips don't line up at all. 2 options, major surgery on the cowl (fascia, surround, call it what you wish, perhaps Frank) or send it back. You could cut the slot for the vent wheel easy enough but I think I'd remove it...

Given that the vents don't come fully forwards (although they will sit in the same position ita just the cowl sita further forwards) i suspect that the wheel is simple lost behind the panel on the new one. Can we have pictures of the actual cowl please. A standard din socket is 7 inches, Japan...

Scratch that. I went fishing on Google Japan. https://www.oopartsjapan.com/smartphone/detail.html?id=000000011241 Half the vent is blocked by the fascia. You can see the cutout for the side to side adjuster. It all sits much further forward than an oem panel too...

Oddly I walked past an import yesterday, so I looked through the window. The panel looked identical at a glance but I think it might be flatter then a uk one, as in but sticking out so much. I wondered if this panel is designed to go over the top of it instead of replacing it.

isn't this part of the CAN system, so all data transfer rather than direct feed, which means you need to have the correct output on the bcm, lan and the combination display for it to work? It's a bit more involved than each wire doing 1 thing I believe. Would be happy to be wrong though, as...

First hole next to the filler cap. Just saying, having seen how folks pour oil like its gravy. ?. Clean it out. Run it for a week. Then check again. Plug compression washer is a possibly although you don't normally get oil blow past in a petrol 4 stroke. Cam cover seal would be my guess. Easy...

Manual says to remove bolts for transmission to oil pan.

Nope. You've just done its ideal journey. Now go about your normal driving and watch it plummet back to more normal numbers.

Done. Hopefully it will hide... I mean stop those stone chips.

Work in progress

I know it's it's silly little touch and I know it's fake carbon and that's just sad. But it's also the hardest wearing vinyl in terms of not looking scratched and it's a bit of protection against long nails (and hides the lack of protection from the past 15 years). I also happened to have a half...

Yes, that foam bit is the seal.

I felt the need to go and have a look, I have a few cars to look after and could have been confusing it with another. Glad I did. It's a neoprene seal, 5mm thick. Not attached to the cluster is easy enough to replace. Noidea if you can buy them, but you can cut your own without any real issues.

first you need to diagnose the problem correctly. remove the boot liner/carpet. dry the panels completly. sprinkler talc over all the panels. close boot and spray with hose or wait for it to rain. look for the streaks in the talc to figure out where the water is coming from. if it's the...

all power to you Chief, was just a word of warning having been there more than once on both cars and bikes. they do look much tidier than the scruff under my bonnet. :)

oh goody, stainless in an aluminium block. just add heat and water. there is a reason they aren't stainless from the factory, galvanic corrosion is very real and not very easy to deal with. PO of my bike decided stainless exhaust bolts was a good idea. I've now replaced them, along with thread...

dead thread revival. reprogram the pedal position sensor. theres a video on how to do it. easy first step.

splitting the air flow in this way is difficult as the blower has a vane (air mixer door apparantly) which changes the routing in the air box from the warm air heat exchanger to the cold air exchanger as a single unit rather than being split to either side. for it to be doing what it is doing...