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Thing it's 4 for the rears and 4 for the fronts but could be wrong. They look right, I've not had to replace them in a nissan for a long time and VW are different design.

Changes nothing. Hoses are shagged pipes are solid. Need to see union between pipe and hose on the front but from mot list I'd say its just hoses and a good clean of ferrules needed. Your live is much easier now than this morning. It could go back to **** when you undo the unions but take it...

right, now I can see it, the only thing that's a fail on there is the hoses are shot at the union. the ferrules look a bit iffy but will clean up. The pipes are in ok condition bar the trailing arm pipe where it joins the slave cylinder (about 1" of corrosion, the rest is perfect still)...

PM me your email address. DONT ATTACH ANYTHING permantly until you've got the entire pipe run. trailing arm pipes (rear brakes) are the easiest to do, so I'd suggest you start there if you are replacing the whole system. oh and get a brake flare nut spanner, do not use an open end spanner...

looks alright that. It's good to know it needs a lot of faffing to make right, I think I'll stick with looking out for an OEM double DIN fascia though.

2 options, one, it's not connected as indicator, 2 the little box of magic smoke has been opened and your clocks are fubar without the smoke. try the connector, if that doesn't fix it try a brakers for new clocks (obviously with the same mileage on ;) )

pads and discs. they are already vented, no reason not to get grooved too. brembo max are my preferred, they do make them in the right size and bolt pattern but I'm not sure they are listed for the micra. I like pagid fastroad pads but they are insanely expensive these days. Rears, a good...

LED in a H4 is dubious legality in the UK and will normally be an MOT fail at any good station. How did you find them Mika? I tried them in our van amd on the rf. I didn't like them, they didn't spread well and I found them worse on dark back roads than normal bulbs as well being almost...

If they are seizing up then you most likely have corrosion round the piston seals that's stopping the pistons backing off. You need to strip the calipers and clean. It's not a major job but it is stressful if you haven't done it before. you will have to bleed the brakes after you're done...

fresh ticket for another year. 1 advisory, back box is deteriorating. knew about that. didn't pull me on corrosion on rear springs, but they are to be changed in the next year anyway. now I'll have to service her.

you want a double flare, that kit is fine and identical (excluding the box) to the clarkes kit I've been using for 20 odd years. practice on a bit of pipe before you do it in anger for the first time. use the pipe cutter (massively oversized for brake pipe, I have a dinky one that's perfect...

nothing off the peg. late SR's have a black rather than silver surround that looks much nicer. otherwise you are in to modifications which may or may not be MOT suitable.

The colour is due to the panel not the bulb, you could put blue bulbs in but all you will get is a faded orangy meh. new dials were availble back in the dim and distant, but I'm not sure you'd find anywhere now, so you'd be looking for someone to make you a custom set. doable but not cheap...

https://www.citycarparts.co.uk/nissan-micra-k12--note-e11-models-from-2003-to-2012-battery-clamp-with-bolt-7648-p.asp

not on a manual, yes on an auto.

PM'd you.

brake pipe is pretty much all one size unless you've got some weird american thing. 3/16". go with cuprinickle. should cost about a tenner for 25ft which is more than enough. you'll need a flaring kit. about 16 quid. no idea what size the ferrules are as I haven't looked but would assume...

There should be lateral play in the drive shaft, about 1-2mm. It's to allow the shaft to change length over the suspensions travel (which prescribes an arc not a straight line that isn't centred on the gearbox flange). Could be an inner cv that's fecked though, if its moving more than a few mm...

steer control works by pulling one of two wires to a common 5v ground at a specific resistance to provide a specific voltage. hence 3 wires, one is output at 5v the other two are pulled to ground through a resistor behind the button. it should be white, blue for sensor wires and black for 5v...

Did the drop links this weekend. That means all front suspension bushes are now replaced. Next is a yearly service and MOT. I expect 3 to 4 advisories on that. As long as it passes or only fails on minor stuff next month I think parking sensors and rear shoes will be the order of the month.