Search results

It's a coilpack K11, with the Bosch TB - no solder contacts to dry out - just a MAF sensor that can be cleaned or replaced.

When I asked the question, I guessed it would be Guernsey. I've always wanted to move to the Channel Islands - and now you've given me one more reason! The no MOT law is crazy in my opinion - cars still need to be roadworthy, even if they're only pottering around at 30 MPH. Do you find some...

Welcome to the forum Andy. I'm curious - where is this island of K11's? Might be the place to locate a 1.4 SE for myself - my 1.0 is fine, but I'd love a little extra power at times - with a 1.4 I might not get a queue of traffic behind me, all getting "Micra Rage".

Yes, I'd certainly check the IAC valve - I don't think there is much chance a new TB would solve anything, if I have already cleaned/replaced the individual sensors with no effect. But I'm still unsure if I can 100% rule out the MAF and TPS - having disconnected both, with no improvement.

Never really understood this throttle body business - doesn't replacing the individual sensors have the same effect as replacing the entire TB? The TB itself is just a casting - it's the sensors in the TB that are performing the functions.

Disconnected the TPS today as an experiment - no improvement - possibly a bit worse. Does this mean that the TPS can't be to blame either? I was planning to remove the TPS and give it a clean (once I'd acquired the necessary tool) - and I'm curious to know if there is any point in trying it...

I think you'd have to remove the entire throttle body to do it - which is a slightly bigger job than a bumbling amateur like me would prefer to take on.

Might need it if I have to get the IAC valve off - had a look last night and it's in a crazily difficult position to access. Hopefully, new sparks and/or cleaning the TPS will do the trick and I don't have to touch it.

After doing a lot of research, it seems most likely to be a problem with the Idle Air Control valve - hopefully it can be resolved simply by cleaning it. I'm thinking this, as my problem is only with a low idle when warm - I don't have flat spots or performance issues associated with MAF...

Yes, I was planning to try that, but only for diagnostic reasons - ie, disconnect the TPS simply to see if it cures the problem - if it does, then clean or replace the TPS. Can you just drive with the TPS permanently disconnected? It must be performing some useful function.

Gave the "new" MAF a clean and no improvement - but I wasn't expecting any, after disconnecting the MAF entirely failed to cure it. I'm thinking it probably isn't the MAF at all now. I don't have any of the other symptoms, such as poor performance, engine flat spots or kangarooing etc - the...

Well, I've just tried running it with the MAF disconnected and there is no improvement - if anything it was slightly worse. I'll try giving the MAF a good clean with CNC (and connecting it back up obviously) - and see if that helps. But if it runs the same when disconnected, am I right in...

No - I remember reading this will tell you if it IS the MAF at fault, and not something else going on - I'll try it later, before cleaning my new MAF I presume you leave the MAF in place - and just take the connector off?

Managed to get the connector off today and decided to start by swapping the MAF for a spare one, rather than clean the existing one - as I can just about drive the car with the existing MAF, so I don't want to mess with it. The new MAF was no better - slightly worse in fact. When you put a...

Managed to get a better look at the connector today by using a mirror - it looks the same, except the tab bit isn't as long as the one in the picture - it's about 3/4 the length. Tried lifting, pressing, pushing, pulling the #@$% thing - nothing. I've given up and squirted a couple of shots of...

Ah, I haven't tried that technique - I've just tried pushing down on the whole thing - I'll give it a go in the morning

Connector seems to be like the one below. The "tab" thing on the connector is quite hard to see because it's on the side facing away from me, but it feels like this - I've tried pressing down on the tab and sliding it forward, but nothing is moving. Not sure if the tab has any function at all...

Good to hear it worked for you. Yes, I figured I'd try that as a last resort myself - although the website does seem to be recommending that you remove it to clean it, ideally. But just in case cleaning it doesn't fix the problem and I have to fit a new one, I'd still be interested to know how...

I have a 2001 K11 I'm trying to remove my MAF sensor to give it a clean (with CNC cleaner), or if that doesn't do the trick, replace it - usual problem, poor idle etc No problem undoing the screws - the former owner replaced the security ones with standard flat head screws - my question is how...

Naturally, google was the first thing I did - I wouldn't be asking here if I hadn't searched for ages without finding an answer. I suspect there is no difference, as even on the Bosch website the part number is the same, with or without the "+".