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Ive seen how much these things fetch on e - bay! LOL Sorry guys this is a mess, i'll list some rough prices the best offer around that price received in the next day or two secures feel free to PM. Lights 70+ Arm rest and pod 80+ for the pair mirrors 40+

Yeah it's a good wheel, tightens up the steering no end, goatbox I've been trying to contact you, have you changed your number? My email is on my profile.

£100

C'mon guys, offers!! I'll put the arm rest to auction unless any one wants to make a better offer no disrespect intended. Yes mirrors can be adjusted by pushing the glass. I just thought i'd offer the things up here first to give you guys first chance.

The arm rest has some light scratches, nothing much the marks appear to be some sort of tape i havn't tried to peel it off. I havn't tried fitting to a UK K11, but it's off a k11 so i can't see there being any major fitting issues. Best offer secures or I'll auction them. cheers

More parts open to sensible offers or they'll go to an auction site postage will be at cost. K11 classic rear lights with chrome surround wiring and bulbs included, some light scratches, lens could do with a polish. K11 Arm rest with cup holder and storage and folding thingy. some bits of...

I have a Greddy Rebic, it's an extra injector controllor that can be set to fire from rpm and boost, it's perfect for a low budget turbo conversion.

Check the float level in the sight glass, if the pump was connected backwards the force can bend the level tab. does the car rev ok in neutral?

There is definitely something up electrical causing the coil to get hot, i'm not familiar with the auto cars, is there just the usual wires on the coil? ie HT + and - and the supressor thingy? Or does the auto box take any sort of signal to reference gear changes? Do you have a tachometer...

You need to get under the car though.

Even if you had cracked a bore it would still run, unless it caused it to seize. You may have the low voltage wires to the coil on the wrong way round, but it should still run acceptably. I would look at things associated with the coil, check your points again. I would also re torque the head...

You can get to them with the engine in place.

Yeah i found out the hard way too, don't go past the bottom of the 'E' if possible don't go anywhere near it.

How did you crack the head? Where is it cracked? I have loads of heads, I have 2 ported heads here also, open to offers.

It should start wherever it is, unless you somehow have the rotor at 180deg to where it should be. You need a timing strobe to reset the correct ignition timing. Just out of interest, what makes you think that the dizzy was broke in the first place?

I havn't really looked in to it in too much detail, but I think there is probably a valve on the inlet manifold. The emission k10's have a similar set up but the gas is recirculated from the exhaust manifold. As far as I see it, hot exhaust gasses in your intake is never going to be a good...

Amongst my vast collection of MA heads I have some JDM heads, the bottom of this port has a blanked off area on the Uk cars, but on the JDM heads there is a port that runs straight through to a port on the inlet side. It would appear to be some sort of EGR.

Hayabusa is fuel injected. Also bikes rev a lot harder than your average k10 so you will need smaller carbs than you think.

Just go to your local alarm fitting place they carry lots of different shapes and sizes. should cost a couple of quid.

You will have to drill a hole and fit a universal sensor as used when fitting an alarm.