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Deffo sounds like the charge isn't getting back to battery, as frank suggested do a continuity test You'll maybe need to replace the charge cable! If the alternator is charging, the voltage over the battery with the car running should be between 13.5v and 14.5v I've also looked at Autodata for...

Have you also fitted the Immobiliser Control Module as well as the ECM?

The "Rotten Egg" smell is probably from the 'cat' converter

What condition is your battery in, as my micra was giving awful trouble before christmas. It was traced to a bad battery! it was sparking, but it wasnt strong enough to start the car without jump leads, then once a bit of charge built up it would run all day on its own. It lost the charge...

If they are standard fit on a newer k11, then they will be ok! our peter fitted 185/55x14 Bridgestones to my aunts 98 micra, and he's a tyre technician(25 yrs) by trade, so they must be all right

Have you removed the rear wiper motor, i know some cars are prone to rotting around this area, where the spindle comes through the hatch

They are the same principle as minis, metros, etc... Believe me they need replaced periodically, as the contacts in the dizzy and the end of the rotor do suffer wear with jumping spark, its possible Nissan doesn't want to share their service info! According to autodata, you should inspect HT...

My neighbour didn't, her A3 had a flat battery 4days in a row!!!!! The switch wasn't continuously stuck, it released after a while. She only found out when the rozzers pulled her over to inform her!!!!

On some vehicles, a sticking brake lamp switch can drain the battery!

Cheap wiper blades can give an irritating squeaking, I had to fit a set of new champion wipers to get rid of the squeaks

yep, franks right (FFS) DONT SWAP THE BATTERY LEADS,cos you'll #### the ecu up

Cut the cv boot and make sure you have no pressure on drive then crack the outer cv joint with a block hammer. it's only a little wire spring clip holding the shaft into the joint! A good sharp jolt will release it.

stretched cables? but i thougt they would stretch to both wheels at the same rate, unless the rear brakes weren't in good balance. check the cable mounting/shoe lever isn't seized As far as i'm aware the K11 has the same underpinnings from 93-02, any changes were cosmetic - new lights...

They are fairly esay to take out, but if you knoy someone with a compressor in their garage, then get them to use an air gun to blow from the jet back to the resivoir

the price is reasonable, if the brake lines are replaced from the master cylinder to the rear drums and not jointed somewhere in the middle

That was my point to start with!, don't #### about putting in the wrong part

nissan recommeds 2.2 bar (F), 1.9 bar (R) in 13" rims, and 2.3 bar(F) 2.0 bar (R) in 14". Also running your tyrea at lowerpressures increases the effort needed to turn the steering, not to mention giving them a shorter wear life and possibly damaging the sidewalls

You would have to go to an enineering supplier to get high tensile bolts which should be suitable for your suspension, and you can be sure the will be cheaper than the the nissan stealer. O.oO.o(FFS) even Merc dont charge that much, and I work in the Commercials end @ merc O.oO.o

There should be a thin 'excitor' wire from the ignition switch, also if your battery has so little electrolite in it the battery could have a dying or dead cell. good battery voltage should be around 12.5v, if in a vehicle running it should be up to 14.5v

Depends on whether your standard wheels are 13" or 14" Autodata lists the following as standard sizes 155/70 R 13 175/60 R 13 165/60 R 14 77H 165/60 R 14 75H Modern tyres were doing Kuhmo's for £45 - for the 14" a while back Don't forget your spare tyre may need checked too, and if...