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That's what I used. It buckled. The front member is quite rusty, most of the bumper attachment fittings on the bottom pulled out when 'open'. ATM, I'm looking for a K11 in a scrapyard. I can take out the entire front member, up to and including where it joins the main structure in about 10 mins...

Downloaded camera. I believe the part number is 87321705/2. And I see what you mean about the bolts, will try that too.

Hmm. Thinking about it. It seems to me (I have not been at the car since the last post) that somehow, I've either bent the wheel bearing housing/caliper mount, or somehow the caliper. The disk can't be bent, or skewed on the bearing, as there is no vibration at all, and the disk turns smoothly...

I believe they are completely standard - car was bought in ~2000, second hand, and I think it's stock. There are certainly nissan part numbers on the calipers, though I haven't checked if it's the matching number. I'm pretty sure it's actually in contact, not just close, there is no visible gap...

Ok... Sorry for the slightly protracted story. ~8 weeks ago, I was badly distracted in the car (passenger) and managed to mount a 30 degree earth bank alongside the road, at around 30mph, ending up with the car at a maximum of maybe 20 degrees tilt, before going back flat. There was no apparent...

On the minus side, the K11 is light enough to easily get thrown around and lifted up. On the plus side, excellent 0-60 when aloft.

I'll be posting in the next couple of days, when I download them from the camera. (1998 micra) Main rust seems to be on the front member that supports the radiator from below. Lots of rust on all sides of this, under some of the front bumper fixings. I've stripped everything off, and am in the...

I have some piccys of rust removal under the front bumper, and radiator/... removal too, that I could pretty easily write up. However. Cisco, what happens to the site if you get abducted by aliens, or are unable to pay the fees one month? That's part of the reason why I was suggesting...

Sigh. I assumed that after I ran the pressure washer over the thing, that it'd be clean. That combined with poor visibility must have meant that I missed the screwhead in all three cases. Oh well. Thanks!

Or what about simply putting it on wikibooks? http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Main_Page

I've broken several fastners that hold bits of the interior trim on (notably the trim behind the central pillar, over the ECU and the wheel arch liners). These are black, ~20mm diameter, with a rounded head, and a 6mm diameter 1mm depression in the middle. I don't know what the back of them...

Lots of linux tools mainly. sox -r 44100 -c 1 -b -t ossdsp /dev/dsp0 -t raw -|\ hexdump -e '1/1 "%1d\n"'|\ awk '!o&&($1>160){o=1;last=start;start=(NR/44100)}o&&($1<100){t=NR/44100;o=0;print t,t-last,t-start}' Takes the output from the soundcard, and processes it into lines of the form 167.729...

Hokay, got logs. http://www.mauve.plus.com/scatter.gif (RPM on bottom, injector width on left) is a scattergraph of every injection over about 45 mins of fairly sedate driving. The line on the bottom is I think engine braking, I assume that no actual fuel is getting injected at this time. I...

Taking off the fascia. This is how I removed the fascia on my (RHD!!) model. I assume LHD is similar. If the fascia is one large bit of plastic. Remove all plastic trim in the area. Remove front pillar trims. Remove tweeters. Remove instrument cluster. Undo radio, and all things next to it. Now...

Also check if the 'engine check' light stays flashing. If it does (on a NATS car) this can mean that it's having problems. My car does this very occasionally, it won't start, and just flashes the light, having to have the key turned back off and on (without engaging the starter motor) 50-100...

Left hand axis is RPM. Bottom is seconds. Red is RPM (really time between injector firings, which isn't always the same thing), and green is the width of the last injector pulse. This one is another - similar, but the axis on the right is the injector pulse width in seconds, and a blue graph...

If it's usually cold and rainy, and hot and dry, then heater use and rain may be correlated, but not causative.

I diddn't keep the .wav. It is on the rev limiter - I think that it's cutting fuel not only at 6K RPM, but also if it's approaching that very fast. The .wav showed periods of complete inactivity, so it's not a bug in the processing program. I'm going to take more samples with GPS as well, and...

Not quite. Undo the trim panels, and solder a connection to the blue wire from the ECU, which as the haynes manual promised, is an injector wire. Now, 2 47K resistors, and 1 1K resistor, hooked up to laptop sound port, and postprocessing the wav file. GPS to calibrate the injector...

Oops - ~1998 - CG10de