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Sorry to stray a little off topic, but what specification has your engine been built to Nissanmania? Compression ratio, cam durations etc? and at what rpm does peak torque and peak power occur at?

It's quite a lot of work to do only to place them in a common plenum and rig up a compromised system just to make it work. The gains wont be anywhere as good as a properly setup system, plus you will have to fit a piggyback system at the very least to make it drive properly, which intself is a...

Yeah, my car's setup for the track. 1st time I went out with the 20mm bar on the back with standard droplinks, they failed about 1/2 way through the day grrr! You just don't get sustained cornering forces on the road like you do on a circuit......well not unless you're nuts behind the wheel ;)

There isn't really a downside to running a big bar on the K11. The only thing I could possibly imagine being mentioned is that the rear end will tend to snap out on you when you pass the critical grip point on the rear, rather than gradually cause the front end to wash out as it does with the...

I'd recommend the 22mm one without a doubt. I have a CG13DE powered K11 and I'm running the 20mm swaybar on it's highest setting and finding it's not enough on the circuit.

Ok, what's the deal with these random pics that keep popping up?

huh?

Well I can get a new one to my door from a company I deal with in Japan for just under £250. They're cheaper than they were a few years back and the YEN is a lot better these days. I dare say you payed mid £350 for it, as most UK companies haven't dropped their prices to reflect the...

I'm interested in your flywheel, price depending, if you're in the UK.

Another one of it after coating.

The whole "is 2" too big" question depends totally on the quality of system you have made. I originally has a Janspeed manifold, which has an 1 3/4" collector, a Janspeed 1 3/4" de-cat box and a 2" cat back system, although the piping was 2" in the cat back, they sleeved the pipe to make it the...

Ok, not to worry, good luck with the sale.

Is it just the clutch your selling?

I assume your first dyno was on the standard car? which showed 45bhp, which is a loss of 30bhp total, or a collosal 40% loss. The losses from a K11 gearbox should not be this high, you should be expecting to see maximum 25% loss. Typical power loss from a K11 is around 20bhp total on average...

I'm lost completely here. You have a 1.3 engine, cams, ported head, good exhaust system, Motec and you're making 60bhp@7000rpm at the wheels? Which is roughly 80bhp at the flywheel give or take. 5bhp over stock and 1000rpm higher, torque wise that's worse than standard. Please can you explain more.

I had Greenstuff, as you can see from the photo. Not very impressed at all really. Initially they are very good, but after a while they loose their edge and even from cold are dissapointing. I now use Mintex M1144's and find them to be much better.

Here's a comparison of standard brakes to a gti-r conversion. Hope that help :)

My engine mounts were in very bad shape when I came to replacing them with Nismo ones. You could rock the engine back and forth with your hands. I recommend Nismo replacements, the engine hardly moves and gives a very responsive feel when coming on and off throttle. They do transmit a lot more...

0.6mm will raise your compression.

Proflex kit for the micra is only for those who are sitting or someone who has a VERY deep wallet!!