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Correct. pipe from bottom of air pan to right side of metal Tee on back of inlet manifold. Left side of this metal Tee goes to plastic angled T piece and on to distributor. The side pipe is angled back and goes to nipple on right side of carb. Well that's how it is on mine anyway :)

If the noise is coming from around the cowl then it might be misaligned and rubbing against the wheel slightly. More likely to be worn steering rack bushes. The usual trick is to wrap insulating tape round them to tighten them up a bit. John279 glad you are getting it sorted

I was wondering about checking the ECU in case it would report a crank sensor problem or something else which would prevent it from injecting. There's a procedure for getting the flash codes from them which I could find for you if you don't have it. Yes the injectors have two pins. I know why...

You can't be far off It will fire if you put petrol into the throttle body so you must have some sort of a timed spark. I take it the fuel rail is flowing fuel. So is it injecting? I don't know how good the ECU diags are but it may be worth checking the flash codes on the ECU

Hi. Unfortunately there could be a number of things causing this problem and it can be difficult to diagnose remotely. The fast idle control your describing won't cause this. It works by detecting electrical loads which could cause the engine to slow or stall when idling, and opening a solenoid...

Yes sounds right. Not really looked on this engine but the pipe from the fuel filter will go to one end of the rail, and the pipe from the pressure regulator will return to the tank. You can check it by running a pipe from the pressure regulator into a bottle and cranking the engine - you...

I'd check you haven't got the flow and return to the fuel rail mixed up.

I've had problems with the three bolts on the front of the block. They are open to the elements at the bottom so you can get rust creeping up the threads and corroding them in tight to the aluminium. Don't believe a head bolt had snapped in service, more likely it snapped when they tried to...

Well I'm 6'7" and there's far more leg room in a K10 for me than almost anything else I have driven. In any modern car my left leg is usually bashing against the centre console, and my right knee is jammed between the steering wheel and door handle. :laugh:

If water is getting into the tank through a rusted filler neck or similar it will usually happen slowly over a period of time without any symptoms and the tank will start to rust. You'll usually then see orange petrol in the fuel filter. There's a drain plug on the bottom of the tank, but...

Yes these carbs have a float chamber and will only work installed with the barrels vertical. Think I misunderstood what scott was meaning.

If I understand you right your talking about turning the carb horizontally 90 degrees. This shouldn't make any difference but you want to try and design it so that you get smooth airflow drawing the same from both barrels

Does it sound like a misfire on one cylinder only? If so it might be worth doing a compression test to see if one cylinder is low.

Still sounds like the carb to me, especially if it is starting ok and idling without misfire until it dies. A couple more things you can check... Have you got contaminated fuel? - did the old fuel filter look brown or black, and what does the new one look like now its had a bit of fuel pumped...

Keep at it and I'm sure you will get it sorted. I know these sort of problems can be very frustrating. Is the hesitation and stalling when you open the throttle intermittent or does it happen all the time? If the engine starts easily and idles ok, but stutters and dies when you open the...

To be honest I wouldn't try and split the carb. I would try and get a second hand one. The carb is quite intricate and its a bit of a specialist job to clean and reassemble them successfully. If your going to have a go you will need a proper gasket for the top cover at least.

That's normal operation for the second barrel, it opens under mid to high engine load. Could be blocked jets, a weak spark or both. If you can get hold of them I would try replacing the carb, HT leads and possibly the coil.

Any motor factors should be able to get them, but it's a cylinder head off job.

Good one frank if there not too tight you can tap them round with a centre punch. Had a look at the old lock I've got and to be honest I don't think you'll have any luck trying to get it apart and together again. As I said before if your very lucky it might free up with a bit of penetrating oil...

I think I still have the remains of a broken lock in a car outside. I will go and have a look at it when I get a moment and see if it looks like you can get it apart to do anything. I think your best option though is to get a replacement lock from a scrappy or ebay. The shear bolts (top left...