Search results

ace, will have a look for the K10 manual then. Cheers Frank! :) Sent from my Nexus 6P using Micra Sports Club mobile app

ah ok, will have a go with hammer and screwdriver tomorrow... is the pre-face gearbox pretty much identical to the K10? I might try to find the K10 Haynes manual if it's the same (or near enough to be relevant)... I saw some people pointed out the K10 has an exploded diagram of the gearbox...

yeah I wish I just ignored the Haynes manual and tried that first, with both wheels off and the car on axles stands on the chassis, it was really easy to push the driveshaft end out the hub carrier... oh well so seized dowels... I think I might have spotted one at the front, can I hammer them...

Ok, so after a long time I've finally got round to having a go at replacing the gearbox bearings and clutch/bearing and I've got everything else off (I think) following the Haynes manual* and pollyp's post about it. * so vague lol, no need to undo the bloody trackrod end ball-joint! Had a go...

Sheared two bolts (the nearside ones) off the battery tray, even though they were soaked, while starting an ambitious gearbox recon and clutch replacement...

Well, all done. Still makes the same whirring sound with the clutch engaged and in neutral, but not with the clutch pressed. Seems like there's a similar thread about that just now...

Haha, ok yeah I didn't take that out. Cheers for the quick answer, supposed to be at a birthday weekend right now.

I've drained the gearbox and have plenty of 80w oil to put in, but can't remember how to get the oil to actually go in. I've removed the speedo drive (and the screw) and have tried: - a funnel that was slightly narrower than the whole opening - some 1/4" tube that seemed to fit over the inner...

Cheers for the offer Si but I've not done a gearbox removal before (was going to just get the local garage to do it) so you'd probably end up with oil all over your garden and smashed hands lol. After paying a lot more attention to the gearbox noise and changes, it seems to change ok, but...

If it makes a difference, it's a pre-face '96

I think my gearbox is on its way out (reverse often won't engage 2 out of 3 times, rarely a forward gear won't engage, the centre return spring isn't there anymore, it always has a seeping of oil, and lately the rolling/rumble sound with the clutch engaged has increased so I guess a bearing is...

I'm pretty sure an engine swap is a drop in replacement for cg10 to cg13. The 1.0 has a shorter throw gearbox (so better for acceleration, worse for top speed)... Any other differences should be minor

Ah that's good to hear yeah. Haha, that is a bit lazy with the offset wheel. I switched my wheel out for a 3 spoke deep dish, so there's a lot more to hold onto (even though I'm pretty certain it's a smaller diameter). I can only do the arm on the door driving in crawling traffic, a couple...

did it by trial and error to get it centred, and by eye to get rid of the toe out... stays nice and centred driving straight along the ridge of a road, and no more squealing sound effects round car parks. It might not be dead on perfect, but it's definitely a load better than it was, so no...

I now own a spanner set from 6mm to 32mm... probably will have to wait til the weekend to tit about with steering adjustments rather than try to do it in the dark

Yeah too true... I definitely have issues when a socket won't do! Will have a look around

I managed to get the panhard rod on, so that was a success. But I found that I have a pretty small collection of open ended spanners, and only one suitably long handled adjustable spanner, so I couldn't get the locknuts undone. I tried molegrips and the adjustable and failed miserably... it's...

After taking the locknut and rubber washer off the offside/lower end of the panhard rod, I cut away the rubber flange part that was over the panhard rod, and then sprayed a generous amount of oil in the there. I used a lump hammer head behind the panhard rod as a fulcrum and pushed the other...

I've replaced the front suspension with KYB Excel-G K11 shocks and HOL tarmac springs, and rear suspension with KYB Excel-G Corsa-B shocks and HOL tarmac springs. Springs are 50 and 60mm drop. I'm determined to get the Noddy adjustable panhard rod on to sort the back offset out. But what is...

just noticed this is in K10... bah! lol anyway, any pointers on levering the panhard rod off the lower side gladly welcome :)