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yeah mate,it was way off.about 10-15mm by my reckoning.but its all good now

yeah,turns out there were some issues with it after all...in fact the damn thing didnt fit at all.had to chop a bit out the main section,and put a sleeve in and weld it all back up.and had to buff it in a few places cos of clearance issues with power steering pipes and wiper motor.all done now...

didnt see it fouling any pipework when we offered it up.is this aways an issue?

the trick to fitting copied/aftermarket fibreglass add-ons is to test-fit the part and then apply heat with heatgun/hairdryer etc to the whole piece.this will soften the piece which will then take on the shape that its been held in place to once it cools down.to be absolutely sure do this...

seen a few posts regarding this,but i cant find anything explaining it further.can anyone explain whats to be soldered and the symptoms that require this?thanks folks

no,none at all.even the latches work with the nissan seatbelt buckles.

here you go dude

welcome back son.see you saturday morning

only one of the mounts didnt need a bracket welded on.the sideways bolted one beside the handbrake.other 3 needed brackets fabricated

ive posted a thread previously about building a 1.0 engine with a bit more balls than the standard.this is on the basis that 1.0 engines are ten a penny and i could pick up a high-miler for practically nothing and engineer it at my leisure.but eventually i will find a 1.3 k11 that has failed its...

thanks again mate.any idea if it'll need a remap to supply more fuel once the cams go in?

me and the boy are planning on building a 1.0 over course of a few months.with a view to installing it next spring. so im gonna lighten the conrods and crank.skim the head,possibly(if theres room)fit bigger inlet valves,doubled valve springs,gas flow the head. so,for the guys here(frank i...

insurance is the biggest scam in the world.and generally the most lied about too.youll have people telling you they only paid this tiny amount.like the ones who say theyre 19 and only paying 3-400 a year,and your thinking 'why cant i find a quote like that?'.the short answer is...theyre...

if you didnt adjust the rear brake load compensator valve,the car being lowered makes it think the car has rear passengers,and applies more braking to the rear.theres a cpl of links in the forums but i suck at putting links in

imo highly unlikely.if you mean the inner sills seen from under the carpet.the car is painted there and it doesnt really take much of a battering,unlike the outside of the car.if you wanna do anything then pull back the carpets and wipe the floor over then give it a polish .but id say thats...

there are little plugs along the bottom of the outer sills..prise these out to gain access to inside of the sills. now what to do next is get your lance for the waxoyl,jam the end with a screw and puncture the tube down its length for a few inches.when you poke the lance inside the sill and...

yeah in scotland theres definitely something in the air...we call it rain

yeah that could be an issue.i wouldnt buy just an engine though.id go for a full car thats been laughed off an MOT ramp.that way i get the gearbox too,and when ive ripped the heart out i can fill it up with scrap metal,put it over the scales and get back what i paid out on it.if fleabay prices...

yeah but in my case the last thing i want is a good shell.ideally i want to find a rotten piece of sh** going for scrap money.the shell will be going to the scrappy after ive taken what i want from it anyway.my boys car(now)has an excellent rot-free shell.

and gearbox too?or is that a judgement call?dont want it to squeal like a b**ch or give a duff speedo reading. and what about the ecu?i remember doing a 1.1 to 1.4 swap on a metro years back and it underfuelled