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had the cv boots done on my car .... should the bolts on the hub carrier to struct joint be done up with the car weight on the suspension or off ? thanks Mike

make sure the pads move ok in the caliper , the rust and grime builds up and jam the pads , make sure the pads are a "sloppy" fit , ie not tight , you may need to take a file to the caliper to clean it up as a wire brush wont clear the rust , also are the pads worn flat so that the piston is...

since I was a brat in a Fiat, the biggest problems with single caliper brakes are .. 1/ the guide or pads stick 2/ the piston sticks in the caliper . 1 is easy to fix ,clean , file pads if required and lub , but 2 needs the piston to be pumped out till the fluid seal is nearly visible ...

interestingly I have just had my front drive shafts changed and the gearbox refilled with fresh oil ....cv boots had ripped . just before that I changed my back tyres round and now have two Dunlops that are getting low on tread as opposed to two pick n mix budget tyres as a result I have hit...

had the same prob a while back , one brake was binding , ended up pushing the brake piston in ( using force ) and out ( using the peddle) , also lifted the dust rubber to lubricate the piston with brake fluid , prefer to use brake fluid as it is designed to take higher temps than oils like WD40...

from what i can gather there is no advance retard mechanism in the dizzy so its all done by the emu , my engine used to pink on hot days before the MAF got changed ...

just a hint , but had faint burning smells in my car with the heater blower on . Just investigated and found the resistor card for the blower was covered in dirt, given it a good clean with contact cleaner . checked my other cars resistor card and that was dirty as well . should prolong the...

sounds like it , had that on another car , the brake hose collapsed and the brakes went hard and ineffective , find some brake vac hose , failing that some of that modern polyurethane stuff that is made for airlines and such . With the engine off check the booster is working by pumping the...

mine was a Bosch MAF which finally stopped the car one cold morning . but yes the car would smell rich sometimes , not pull or rev when cold , and had a lack of power when hot

I would of expected just under 200 miles , each little segment on the fuel guage gives me just under 50 miles on my car . even when I had a faulty MAF it still did good mpg but had no power , now it has power and slightly lower mpg with the new TB . Tyres are at 33psi , all excess weight is...

I am after a few pointers on the back brakes as I have one that is binding a little . Its a K11 liter. can the rear drum warp on this car if it overheats ? the handbrake is working and releasing but the drum rubs a bit ... how do I re adjust the pads . I am not sure if they are self adjusting...

got 10w40 in mine , runs ok , still get the chain rattle at start up and the oil light goes out quick . is the oil filter ok , some have a seal that stops the oil draining back into the sump , and some dont ..... edit just started mine from cold and the light was out in 1/2 a second or so...

that could be the connector for the MAF , the car will run with it disconnected and will give poor mpg and performance ...

interestingly I just did 200 miles at 70mph and got 40mpg ( London to Liverpool) ..is this good for a micra ? ... I used to do the same run in a volvo240 and got 30mpg !!

should help that I have just found out my tyre pressure gauge was reading 5 psi high and have now corrected for it . and chucked out half of my toolkit from the boot which has saved a lot of weight. just got 44mpg on the last tankfull

interesting ....it monitors the MAF and TPS and warns you that your not in the best region of the engines fuel comsumtion .... by the way its a http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en010114 thing is , its difficult to match road conditions to what an engine wants . If...

I dont mind the loss of performance ? as I dont drive in rush hour traffic and my run to work covers 13 miles of motorway and A roads with very little stopping and starting . So i know if I make an improvement......

thinking or re routing the intake pipe to the filter box so that the pipe sucks warm air from the back of the radiator instead of cold air from behind the headlamp . Idea being that the warm air will force the engine to less fuel ( will it ?) . Anybody else tried this or thinks its worth trying...

looks great , impressed !!! have you fitted a panhard rod to the back axle ?

its cold down here near Liverpool , we have had some -17c , but I did notice today in the -7c , that with the heater fan running and the engine still warming up that the sounds mixed and sounded really "boom like" , the car was "humming" , even the exhaust sounded loud , nowt wrong with the car...