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:laugh: Congrats on the garage Karl! If you are going down the V6 route what about the 2.5? Silky smooth power. Just remember to do the timing belt before fitting the engine.

Guy! Did you have your grinder valeted before that pic? Having second thoughts about posting my pics now, dont want to be known as the guy with dirty rough looking grinders!

Airbag light on or pretensioners disarmed/used arent MOT failures (Although they are trying to make airbag lights part of the test, gits!) If you remove the airbag and control unit you could just take the bulb out the dash, or stick some tape over it! LOL!

For general grinding I use a Bosch 12v grinder. For preping for welding I use a cheap 12v grinder (from Lidl :laugh:) and flap wheels. Have small pneumatic air cut off tool that is lethal and noisy so we try not to use it. Dewalt 18v cordless andle grinder with cracked casing, bought for taking...

I'd go for ignition switch or fuel pump. Too old for NATS problem, windscreen clips would show up as a water leak. To check the ignition switch start the car and put dipped beam on. Grab the key and vigorously pull and push it in the lock as you would if performing a car-jacking. If lights...

Still looking! So far found later type, think the earlier ones are in the other container (will look tomorrow)(Y)

If you get an assistant to start the car while you lean over the engine you should be able to identify what side of the engine the noise is from. Timing chain=drivers side Passenger side=starter Easy!:laugh:

326 is the standard Nissan white as found on K11s Remeber later models have a clearcoat ontop of all colours instead of just metallics.

:blush:

Sure! Must be trade members near you who would fit them?

Welcome! Get some pics posted!

Red will firm things up enough to notice. Because yellow is firmer it transfers more load to the actual components/bodywork. Not a problem thrashing about smooth race tracks or on a car you dont need to use every day but not so nice driving about on the pot holed roads we have here! At best your...

From ebay right? We have fitted a few sets! Good instructions, and nice fit. Go for the red ones as the yellow ones are a bit harsh for road cars. Diameter refers to your anti roll bar. Pretty sure the standard one is 19mm.

we removed the arms and burned the old bushes out! You get grease with the new bushes. No press or special tools needed.

I'd say about £90 for a fill and paint, £150ish to replace the panel.

Would go for secondhand door, its a popular colour. As for the rear quarter a decent bodyshop should be able to replace/refill the panel. Depends on your budget!

:laugh: Ok, fingers begun typing before brain was up to 4th gear. What we used to do when this problem arose when I worked in dealerships was to take out something easy, the glovebox or kick panel etc. and gently coax a bit of welding wire with a hook bent in the end thru. Jiggle it about a...

The standard subframe mounts with 4 12mm bolts. Most bucket seats have 4 threaded holes (Cobra, OMP and Corbeau ones are metric threads and fit 12mm bolts) If you dont want to make brackets for each corner you could make an adaptor plate out of a square plate. (Y)

Theres a guy on ebay that sells uprated ones (Strongflex, from Poland) We have used them a few times now (on Micras and others), they are just as good as whiteline stuff but cheaper with better instructions. I'd use the red ones for a road car though as they are a bit softer than the yellow ones.

I've had problems getting stuff to go thru my firewall too. I just turned off my antivirus! :laugh: What about running a fused live from the cigar lighter?