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double post. time travel is a #####

wow. cool. i am posting 20 min in the past. or you guys are posting 20 min in the future. either way, if anyone wants the lottery numbers, let me know.

hmm posting problems but i think I made my point above. arp make great fasteners which in practice are 20-50% better than stock/oem. depends by model whether that really matters, but I prefer the extra insurance

thank god for links....the easy answer is that studs are a little better. some reasons: you mention 'they are torqued to the same figure". actually the arp studs can be tighter due to the grade of steel used and the treatment. ideally you will use a stretch gauge which measures the actual...

yeah basically when used properly they will clamp tighter and more consistently than the standard bolts. I think they are a very good idea in any rebuild, let along a small, high boost motor like these. They generally come in about 30-50% more than new, genuine bolts. and you should never reuse...

yes, interested, I think they are a good idea in pretty much any build. but btw, when in my rebuild thread I did mention head studs and you mentioned you don't normally bother - have you changed your mind?

I'd be interested in a set of pistons/rods if you get them made up. Otherwise I will have to organise some custom ones locally. Steve, you are unlikely to get acceptable clearances from such an old motor with just a hone. I'm sure your machine cost can estimate clearances after a hone by...

ahh I like your questions!

and another question....is that first one convertible?!?

I'd guess you need to talk to the engine shop too, I'm just a bloke on the internet, they are the experts. But it sounds waaay out of spec to me. Ed has previously mentioned that the only difference in the bottom end is the CR of the pistons and bore diameter so if MA10 engines are readily...

Steve 6 thou extra clearance is huge. What did the workshop say about using the block still? Generally a factory cast piston will have 1.5-3 thou clearance to the bore - so if you originally had only 2 + 6 in the new hone you now have 8 thou which will never work. At this stage I think you...

one thing I haven't seen around here....does any one have the expected compression test results? I really should check before I pull it all apart

excellent...now we are talking. I think I will look into custom rods and pistons there are a few places here that make them up, and at least there are only 4 of them :D

yep that makes sense, mine is running a little more boost though 15psi...damn rich. I'll organise for a custom remapped ecu early in the new year, its quite a common change over here on other nissan ecus of the period - here's hoping they can crack this one too :D

oh cmon bump! have you guys all taken a break for xmas? or is it just that no-one really pushes these motors? where's your sense of (expensive) adventure???

I'd love to see back to back dyno plots on the same day - I assume it is pretty simple to swap the ecu over. My guess is there is 10-20% extra power waiting from a good tune - mine runs 10.5:1 on boost which is the typical nissan-super-safe-but-very-low-power result

see now ed you always do that...."no need to change anything" and "I have all forged parts for my rebuild" :p. Other than pistons, what would you suggest? Actually can you just send me email or phone number I would be happy for you to organise these since my english is better than my japanese...

1 other question - has anyone seen good results from cleaning up the head/ports or turbo manifold?

Thanks Ed for the detailed and very helpful reply as always. I have to admit I am surprised you haven't found anything worth upgrading except the head gasket. Have you had forgies done before? Are the rods OK as is (new rod bolts surely?). And how is the 1.0 crank the same, is the difference in...

Thanks Marty, for some reason the ai files I orginally got weren't right -should be able to sort it with these ones though.