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well, recently i bought something like this.. vacuum, oil pressure and water temp.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150352833862&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT it has electronic senders, does not look that cheap and does the job.. there are loads of...

on the one hand, yes.. on the other hand, not that much, but still.. yes they probably dont sell hundreds every week, so they need to cover their expenses in a few tens/hundreds.. according to the specs, it can measure various pressures and various temps.... of course, sensor is the same...

if you have loads of time and advanced electronic skills, you could build yourself a set :) this is my small project, most of the LED modules are done, but that's just 10% of work (fuel meter would be different, i dont like it) if you want to MAKE yourself a dash, count with many...

If you want to save gas, you could be easily looking at 6/100 :) My 1.0 does 5.4 on highway at 100km/h, and 6.2-6.5 in the city.. mostly fine driving, but sometimes thrashing :D if you could get a hold of vacuum gauge, connect it and stick it somewhere where you'll see it.. it does a great job...

BiAS, could you PM me with diagram too? my dizzy is trying to make me angry and i have another micra with electronic dizzy.. planning to swap them..thxnevermind... just found out in Haynes manual.. there are two types of electronic ignition.. first type has only one change - there are no...

made some progress and found out few things... i've called my friend today and we had a look at it.. on a parking place i got into the car, got the 1st gear in while standing on brake.. then i stepped on throttle and also started to release clutch.. (whole point is to get the engine into load...

how bad is badly? could be just sticking brake pad, misadjusted caliper etc.. how many degrees do you have to turn the steering wheel to get the car go straight? does it get worse when braking? bend axle or something like that would be worse..

how do i find out what is wrong with second barrel? you said it is vacuum operated - i have vacuum gauge permanently connected. .do you know when it opens? can i simply disconnect and plug one of the vacuum hoses controlling 2nd valve to stop it? which one is it? btw.. when you said it is...

anybody?

my k10 has radiator cap with spring, like this one http://www.autopartsfair.com/images/products/engineparts/g101051074fut.jpg from the top of the radiator comes a pipe to the bottom of expansion tank/catch tank.. this tank has 2 indicator lines, min at 1/3 and max at 2/3.. from the top of...

hi again, i am sorry that my thread is again about problems, but problems are to be sorted :) when i start engine and rev it, it goes back to idle fine. when it has proper temperature and i do whatever i want with throttle on neutral or clutch, goes back to idle fine when the engine...

i've just returned from ride.. after stopping i heard bubbling, so i rushed to check it.. overflow pipe is directed to mud protector at the bottom, and it is wet - something went out water in expansion tank must have been overflowing, when i checked, it was maybe 2-3 cm from absolute...

if i understood correctly, old type is with vacuum advance valve, new one has 3 or 4 wires coming from it. i have 2 cars, one micra k10 1.0 and one 1.2.. 1.2 has been standing in previous owners garage for 5 years, i towed it home and i use it for spares.. do you know how should i connect...

today i changed oil. Old one was black in pan and dark brown on fingers.. compared to new oil which was nearly transparent.. crap :) i've also checked spark plugs again, heads were slightly brownish and sandpaper-like. something like first plug here...

should i change headgasket? // problems in the future if i do not // videos hi guys, I'll jump right into it: My micra k10 '86 1.0L with 222222,2 km done last week has problems.. again.. Maybe some of you remember my thread with distributor - stuttering under high load. I've replaced...

do you mean whole dizzy, or just the cap? Looks like my problem :)

well, that gives me 2 things to check/swap.. on the other hand, how would you explain the full cut off? If it was loose dizzy cap, i think it wont start until i touched it.. and it is not loose, even considering that one half is held in a place with wire, it is really tough.. when it cuts...

not a bad idea - when i changed the oxidized HT lead from coil do dizzy, i could have thought about the fact, that not only cable, but coil connector could be oxidized too. Tomorrow i will try to swap coils between 1.0 and 1.2. The coil on 1.2 is a LOT different, but i suppose that i need only...

I checked HT leads - all fine except the fifth between dizzy and coil. The part going to the coil was badly oxidized, so i swapped this one from another car. Then measured resistance, all fine. (Last week.) Spark plugs were checked too, slight brown surface -i think that is good if i remember...

stuttering under high load, maybe distributor? // DONE: dirty carb Hi, i bought K10 two months ago. During those two months i kinda got together with it, slowly discovering it's weaker spots. It has it 1.0 (988cc if i am right) engine, year 1986, approximately 218000km done (135500 miles)...