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I had to remove the guide and even remove a bit of metal from the bolt hole it was that tight

Also ideally you need to preheat cast before welding

You can get rods for dissimilar metals which work well

Simple answer.... No

Have you checked this on the engine? Looks like it will hit the bell housing maybe?

A proper set of taps and dies ( pretty expensive though) will make a world of difference, those kits are more for repairing threads than cutting new.

I've always heated the rod to cherry red , then they slide in by hand. Like this....

Would it not be worth making a steel/alloy template/jig to make it quicker?

Don't forget most electric fuel pumps are designed to push fuel rather than pull so ideally need to be close to the tank

Yes, there should be an arrow on the face which points to the water pump end iirc

I didn't have to touch the rods the pistons just fitted, as for the rebore I paid £50 for all 4 plus a skim

I used a gas bottle for mine.... Seems to work well

Nothing wrong with Imperial taps and dies, plenty of people still use them

Nope standard liners. well 3 of them at least one, got damaged by the machine shop so they replaced it.

I've started to modify the side feed I got but if it's cheap I'd be interested.

Seems to have happened to all the foruns I use, as Pollyp said social media has taken over.

With minis people fit a retaining spring to the dip stick, here is a billet over priced version.... http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/mini-parts-shop/mini-engine-gearbox/block/dipstick-retaining-spring-kit-retrosport A man of your ability could knock one up in no time

I'm looking for the later ( top Feed) manifold with injectors and fuel rail, don't need the throttle body. I'd much rather buy one from an enthusiast than give my money to the local scrappy.

Convert to hydraulic might be an option?

I have the mech if you are interested