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Was wondering about the accuracy of it.. will try clamping the return line in a bit.. eating dinner atm.

oh... hmmm... (checking specs...) ...hmmm.. yes.. it would seem that I forgot to check that first... "2.5 bar approximate" ..but what is "approximate"? +-5%, 20%, how much? Is 2.1 bar too low? and it decreases very slightly when i first rev it but recovers nearly instantly. The engine is a 1.0...

I took the fuel line off the filter and fitted a gauge between it and the pressure regulator. I don't know what the pressure after the regulator is. For all i know it could be dropping off to near zero when I rev it. Wasn't the TB :( I could maybe send it back when I have the cash. Was a bit...

i'm not sure how to check the pressure in the rail... but that could very well be the problem.. I think the FPR has gone, since the pressure didn't change at all with it disconnected.. need to find a replacement I guess.

WDID? Wished very hard for my micra to be well again :/ http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/the-mighty-green-micra.50606/

Update on the Mighty Green Micra: ..not much really.. The Mighty Green Micra has been out of action since the beginning of March. My job situation has changed, so my income has been halved, and a visit to the garage is out of the question for a few more weeks. Should have scheduled my MOT...

I should just get a second micra and test it on that to be sure if it is the problem... but I can't really afford that atm. :/ Now I'm thinking more along the lines of a fuel pressure problem... but I don't have the cash for a fuel pressure test kit which is £80+ here.

Just replaced my TB and still have the same problem as before. When warm, the car is basically undriveable. It idles fine and revs with no problem. Good spark. Injectors are ok... any suggestions? Have already put a lot into this thing and need to sort it soon.

Mine's only £35/mo.. but that's here in norway, through my bank, for a 28 year old, and with 13 years driving, and no incidents/tickets for 5 years.. should post your question in general chat... Good job with the TB btw

I want it! Nice work

Started it and let it warm up for a bit as it hasn't been driven for a week or two :( Waiting on some parts.. then Roadtrips! :D Also, considering some new 14's for summertime

Have you checked the heat shields? Had a similar problem on my Jeep after the clutch was changed and it was a loose shield. Check them first.. easiest way would be to put on a glove and press on each shield while it is idling..

I know what you mean Guy.. I tried to change over to winter tires last year and couldn't get them off for anything.. was afraid I was going to break something, as I was eventually just moving the car by the wheel nut.. ended up paying £32 for a garage to change them, but at least these guys know...

That's between the head and the block, where you get to the top of the pistons. This is under high pressure. The cam cover(or valve/rocker cover) is on top of the head and only needs enough to keep in the oil.

I already have some aluminium paste.. or does it need to be copper?

Found the answer to my question by pulling one and comparing it to others. m6x1.0 x25mm Not really sure why they are screws, but it could be that it doesn't need that much pressure to hold it down. Only 3Nm needed. And you would be surprised at the temps rubber can tolerate, but I thought...

WDID? I kicked it very hard! ...nah, finally sorted out the missing linkage in the right door with a section of allthread with some artistic bends.. I can finally open the door without having to reach through :D

Pleasantly surprised that it started without it, but I would think it still has a purpose... ?

as stated. I've lost the tiny spring the goes between the HT lead and the dizzy cap. I've spent an hour looking for it and would like any input as to what I can replace it with.