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Keep it curvey and you should be fine, mine is a tad longer than standard and has to split in two to do the micro switche’s.

Not sure how easy it would be to do on a micra, but the last car I had with a dizzy I did by ear. Got me close enough. warm the car up and slacken the dizzy slightly, move gently one way then the other until it sounds right. Move it slowly and use a rubber glove. This will give you a close...

Get rid of it ???

Just seen the mileage on it, I would have had it for that money. I’m looking for a donor car for a new trike project.

Should of offered it up for sale here first, I reckon you would of got more for it.

If you have 2 keys, then you could override it. NATS works on a rolling code system, inserting 2 keys in and turning on in under10 seconds realigns it all. this is a simplified explanation but this is why NATS works but is a pain when it goes wrong. An auto locksmith should be able to unlock it...

You can get someone to unlock the NATS system, a good locksmith can sort out a second transponder key. your car isn’t worthless, but with everything running it will be won lot more. The chassis from my donor car went for nearly as much as I paid for the whole car. I have a 1.3 setup at my...

but do you have 2 keys?

Do you have both transponder keys?

Your attachment doesn’t work for iPad, any ideas?

Depends on how far he wants to mod it? look at mine if yours turns out to be a money pit because of corrosion.

That’s the one to start with, the ecu controls the fan switching and would trigger an engine warning light if the sensor has failed. to test it you will need to disconnect that block, attach a 12v supply to the fan on the solid blue (+) and solid black (-). if it works then the relay would be...

Fan should cut in sooner than this. check the wiring to the sensor and the fan. if you can send a feed to the fan directly you can test it separately to make sure it’s working.

On the throttle linkage underneath attached to the go faster pedal. First switch activated is the electrical clutch, the second one is the kick down. It’s the first one that gave me problems.

Check the springs on the micro switches, had a similar issue on the trike and fitted a secondary spring to it. if the revs are to high when the switch is opened it won’t engage.

Unplug the relay and check for a supply voltage for the pump, if that’s ok then it’s signal issue. to check switched supply you will need to connect your meter before turning on the ignition, it will only show voltage for the first 5 seconds of being switched on. black and yellow is signal...

Are you sure it’s the switch? i have one if you are local to Sussex. complete with NATS ring and keys and ecu for a 1L.

At least you know there is life after the rust sets in???

As you can see, mine is a bit of an involved build, got to learn an awful lot about them along the way.

If you know the thread length and pitch your local motorcycle workshop will be the best bet. An old scoo one, not a main dealer.